Quang Tri preserves forefathers’ traditional craft

In the rich cultural life of the Pacoh ethnic group in Huong Hoa District, Quang Tri Province, the traditional craft of making leaf yeast stands out as a unique and time-honored practice.

Using ingredients gathered from the forest, such as rare leaves, roots, and bark, skilled artisans transform nature’s bounty into fragrant yeast balls, essential for traditional winemaking.

Despite its cultural value, this centuries-old craft is slowly disappearing under the pressure of modernization. Yet in A Doi Commune, a small but resilient group of households continues to preserve this ancestral legacy.

Ho Thi Tuong (left) shares how to create leaf yeast balls for making wine with a distinctive taste. Photo: Ngoc Trang

One such effort is the formation of the “Leaf Yeast Making Lovers Group”, comprising five households committed to producing leaf yeast. Though the work is labor-intensive and not highly profitable, it holds deep cultural meaning. Among the most dedicated is Ho Thi Tuong, a woman in her 60s from A Doi Do Hamlet, who has been practicing the craft for decades and now serves as the group’s leader.

“The older I get, the harder it is to continue,” Tuong shared. “My eyes are not as sharp, and my hands not as steady. But very few people have learned this craft, so it’s hard to pass on. That’s why I’m determined to preserve and teach it. Now that the group exists, I can more easily share my experience and help guide others.”

Tuong added that with the group’s collective effort and responsibility, the quality and marketability of the product have improved, helping prevent the craft from fading into obscurity.

A Doi’s leaf yeast is favored by traditional winemakers in Huong Haa for its completely natural ingredients, meticulous preparation, and unique flavor. But this once-common practice is becoming increasingly rare. In the past, A Doi was one of the commune’s main centers for leaf yeast making. Today, only a handful of artisans remain.

The decline is driven by several factors. Each yeast ball requires over 20 different forest-based ingredients, many of which are now difficult to source. Medicinal plants used in the process grow only in remote forest areas.

Moreover, most of the skilled artisans are elderly, and few young people are stepping in to learn the craft. Meanwhile, modern culinary alternatives have reduced the demand for traditional yeast.

In response, local authorities have launched a range of conservation initiatives. These include support programs, improved working conditions, branding efforts, and promotional campaigns through trade fairs and social media.

One of the most impactful measures has been the creation of the “Leaf Yeast Making Lovers Group”, providing a platform for members to share experiences, support each other, and pass down knowledge. Mass organizations such as the Women’s Union, Farmers’ Union, and Youth Union have encouraged participation while offering guidance on product quality improvement and vocational training.

Under the project Plan, households have received new equipment, including raw material grinders, and training to enhance their production capacity. The commune is also working to promote the product through community-based tourism, linking traditional crafts with cultural heritage experiences for visitors.

To further expand the ecosystem, a “Native Winemakers Group” has been established to serve as the exclusive distributor for the leaf yeast producers. This partnership ensures a stable market, helps maintain consistent quality, and strengthens the craft’s sustainability.

“Among the many strategies to preserve this traditional craft, forming support groups has proven especially effective,” said Ho Thi Tham, Vice President of A Doi’s Women’s Union. “Households now feel more confident in continuing the trade. With consistent demand and shared knowledge, they’re also more motivated to teach younger generations.”

She added that the commune will continue to connect with external programs to provide additional support, with the goal of expanding participation and ensuring the survival of the craft. “We hope the success of these community groups will inspire more households to join the effort to preserve the cultural identity of the Pacoh people.”

As modernization surges forward, it is the quiet determination of people like Ho Thi Tuong and the collective action of communities like A Doi that keep the flame of tradition alive -one yeast ball at a time.

Ngoc Trang - Jenna Duong